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Q: 1996 S10 Pickup 4×4 Ext. Cab V-8 Conversion Help…?
I have a 1996 Chevrolet S10 Pickup 4×4 Ext. Cab and I plan on lifting it with a 6″ Superlift and a 2″ Body Lift rolling on 35×12.50. Are there any forums or websites that provide information or kits to complete this task. Thanks in advanced.
A: www.s-series.org
www.v8s10.org
Both real good message boards for the S trucks and v8 swaps
JTR has good info along with a book that tells everything and they sell all the parts. Look over the info and pics they have
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Chevrolet_S-10_V-8.html
You can also get the parts through summit racing
Q: What do I need to change about this email I’m sending to a company?
I’m writing an email to Chevrolet requesting the schematics for a vehicle that has been discontinued. I never really wrote such an email, so I need some help. Here’s what I have so far-
As you may know, the S10 Blazer developed quite a cult following, and several forums devoted solely to the Blazer sprang up. I am a member of one of these forums, and a huge fan of the Blazer. Unfortunately, it was discontinued back in 2003. I was wondering if the blueprints or schematics for this were still available. If they are, I would like to get a copy of them. The ones I am requesting are for the 1992-1994 four door models as well as the 1996-2002 two and four door models. If possible, I would like them in PDF format.
As you may know, the S10 Blazer developed quite a cult following, and several forums devoted solely to the Blazer sprang up. I am a member of one of these forums, and a huge fan of the Blazer. Unfortunately, it was discontinued back in 2003. I was wondering if the blueprints or schematics for this were still available. If they are, I’m interested in getting a copy of them. The ones I am requesting are for the 1992-1994 four door models as well as the 1996-2002 two and four door models. If possible, I would like them in PDF format. Thank you for your time.
Like that? It feels kinda… open ended. I didn’t like the way I left it at the end. This is better, but like I said, it just seems to abruptly stop.
A: If they are, I’m interested in getting a copy of them.
^sounds better.
Otherwise, it’s fine. You should say something like “Thanks for your time” at the end.
If they don’t reply to your email in like a week or two, you should just try calling the company. Really, it’s almost better than emailing but with email you do give them time to respond.
Q: My engine blew, warranty wont cover. Can I take legal action, or what to do?
I purchased a vehicle (a Toyota 2000 MR2 Spyder) last year on September 06.
I didn’t buy it at a Toyota dealership, I bought it at a Chevy dealer’s certified used car lot. (Community Chevrolet in Burbank, CA)
I purchased the car with only 16,000 miles on it, at a great deal to.
I also purchased the optional warranty provided by GMC.
A 24 month/24,000 mile protection plan which covers the engine and drive terrain from any defects/malfunctions.
The next month on Oct I took it to a mechanic who is covered by their warranty. The car was making a rattling noise, but still running fine.
I paid a deductible of $100 and picked up the car in a week.
The issue was fixed, yet on Nov I took it in again, the noise came back. This time I wasn’t charged the Deductible.
When the car was @ 22,335 Miles I took it to get an oil change.
Anyways, needless to say, at 24,235 miles the car took a dump.
The engine locked and seized, the engine blew.
I dropped it off at the mechanic and he checked the oil and there was none. He said warranty was not going to cover it due to neglect, that I failed to put oil in it.
However I had just added oil 1800 miles ago.
He said then there should be oil.
I told him him that not exactly, there are certain conditions in which a car will burn up the oil, and it will then come out as smoke or a milky substance through the exhaust.
I researched why this could have happened, and on
spyderchat.com (Mr2 Spyder owner enthusiast)
they list that the 1ZZ engine in the MR2 had a couple defects.
http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?s=888289dcebbd632686cd1ac240ca7c8a&showforum=6
basically precat issues, and faulty piston ring issues, which as you know may cause oil to burn up, rather quickly, thus when checking the level, there will be no oil.
So what can I do because warranty refuses to cover the engine.
Can i take legal action? Can i show them all this proof?
What would you do.
Im so sick and tired only after 6 months of having the car 3 issues occurred, 1 of them that ended its life.
Also check this out, can this help my case?
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/214788/toyota_engine_woes.html
What reason would an engine have to loose oil in less than 2000 miles though.
I didn’t notice the oil consumption until it blew.
I did check the oil, early feb I checked and it was fine.
End of feb is when it went out.
I bought it a 16,000 miles changed oil at 18,500. first time then second time at 22,335. then at 24.135 it went out.
I doubt toyota would cover it since i purchased it at a chevy dealership.
A: Not to take sides, but you’re supposed to check the oil. I can’t imagine the gauge or light didn’t come on warning you about low oil. I think you’re on your own and would have a hard time finding a lawyer to take this on contingency, but you never know. Doesn’t hurt to ask. The dealer may give you a nuisance settlement just to make you go away. I personally think that stinks, but people do it every day. If you read your own link, it says Toyota would have fixed the problem if you had warned them of the high consumption. Oh well.
Q: Can I take legal action or what to do?
I purchased a vehicle (a Toyota 2000 MR2 Spyder) last year on September 06.
I didn’t buy it at a Toyota dealership, I bought it at a Chevy dealer’s certified used car lot. (Community Chevrolet in Burbank, CA)
I purchased the car with only 16,000 miles on it, at a great deal to.
I also purchased the optional warranty provided by GMC.
A 24 month/24,000 mile protection plan which covers the engine and drive terrain from any defects/malfunctions.
The next month on Oct I took it to a mechanic who is covered by their warranty. The car was making a rattling noise, but still running fine.
I paid a deductible of $100 and picked up the car in a week.
The issue was fixed, yet on Nov I took it in again, the noise came back. This time I wasn’t charged the Deductible.
When the car was @ 22,335 Miles I took it to get an oil change.
Anyways, needless to say, at 24,235 miles the car took a dump.
The engine locked and seized, the engine blew.
I dropped it off at the mechanic and he checked the oil and there was none. He said warranty was not going to cover it due to neglect, that I failed to put oil in it.
However I had just added oil 1800 miles ago.
He said then there should be oil.
I told him him that not exactly, there are certain conditions in which a car will burn up the oil, and it will then come out as smoke or a milky substance through the exhaust.
I researched why this could have happened, and on
spyderchat.com (Mr2 Spyder owner enthusiast)
they list that the 1ZZ engine in the MR2 had a couple defects.
http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54757
basically precat issues, and faulty piston ring issues, which as you know may cause oil to burn up, rather quickly, thus when checking the level, there will be no oil.
So what can I do because warranty refuses to cover the engine.
Can i take legal action? Can i show them all this proof?
What would you do.
Im so sick and tired only after 6 months of having the car 3 issues occurred, 1 of them that ended its life.
Also check this out, can this help my case?
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/214788/toyota_engine_woes.html
A: Get proof that the oil was changed 1800 miles before the car committed hari-kari. Present this to the warranty people to prove there was no neglect. If no one responds, hire an attorney to write a demand letter threatening legal action. You have a claim against the warranty company for not honoring your contract and against Toyota for selling a defective car.
Q: Will a BF Goodrich 285/75/r16 tire fit on my stock rim which previously had a 265/70/r16 tire on it?
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 ext cab 4×4 and it came with some old GeoTrac 265/70/r16 tires on it and I’m looking to upgrade to a BF Goodrich All Terrain 285/75/r16 tire. I have checked on some forums and I am pretty sure it will fit in the wheel well ( I had the torsion Bar cranked to level truck), but I am curious as to whether it will mount on the current rim, or will I have to upgrade because of the increased section width.
A: Yes. My truck came with 245/75/16 which is the same height as the 265/70’s, but skinnier. I installed a set of 305/7016s which are the same height, but wider than the 285’s. No rubbing, no brake problems, better highway performance. Go for it!
Q: What do you think of my car?
Its a 1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z34. It is the only supercharged 5th gen in Colorado, and as far as i know from various forums, the only one with the certain kit that i have on it.
Mods:
ZZP SS M90 Kit w/ 3.6 Pulley
ZZP Short Stack Intercooler Kit
ZZP Powerlog
ZZP Billet Fuel Rails
Full 2.5″ Exhaust w/ 24″ Glasspack, and dual 3.5″ Tips
Drilled 180* T stat
Custom 3″ fenderwell Intake
R1 Concepts Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Hawk pads all around
GTP Shifter w/ Performance shift button (not hooked up)
DHP Powrtuned (Im willing to sell my DHP Tuner aswell w/ the car, included in price)
RK Sport Body Kit
Brickyard Spoiler
A Pillar 3 Gauge Pod
Mechanical Boost
Electrical Oil Pressure and Tranny Temp
Black Ebay Chrome Headlights
Pics:
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4362977&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1
A: Sounds to me like you have a great car.The poster above must be a ford fan.Nothing special sounds like he knows very little about Chevrolet cars.WOW these posters are really brutal on really great cars. Best of luck.
Q: Why does my Company Owned Fleet Vehicle, keep kicking off the pump while fueling, up to as many as 100 times?
Why does my Company Owned Fleet Vehicle, keep kicking off the pump while fueling, up to as many as 100 times?
This is a fleet vehicle, a 2006 Chevrolet P/U 1500 V6. I just recently got this vehicle, and have discussed this problem with all other employess which of some drive the 4 door v8 model silverado and also have this same problem. (all chevy vehicles, Light trucks, do this 2003 thru 2008)
I hunted a solution on automotive forums but couldnt find anything vehicle specific.
Ive tried everythign from using a lower setting but most pumps dont go slow enough to compensate for any usefulness. Generally i just have to slowly rotate the pump handle a few degrees at a time, each time the pump kicks off, till i find the pumps sweet spot. Every pump/ station is different and consumes way too much time? Is there anything i can do? cut the vent tube? replace the vent tube with a different bend type? anyone else have this situation?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
thanks for the quick answers, as i own a 79 chevy dually which does a similar problem and the solution was pull the neck out a little at a time, i have tried this trick but none works as well as i said. Pulling out neck uaully results in dri down the side of the truck, as id slowly try different depths.
@auto zone funnel? can you elaborate?
A: Do not insert the pump neck as far into the fuel port on truck. The curvature of the pump neck is a sharper degree than the fuel inlet tube on truck. The fuel is sprayed ono the side wall and tip senses fuel splatter cutting off pump.
Do not exceed 1/2 of the normal insertion into the fuel inlet tube of truck. Problem solved
Q: Which one of these cars do you like the best?
One is a pic of a possible 2010 Mustang
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=748265
Camaro website, Concept close to what the original is supposed to look like;
http://www.chevrolet.com/camaro/
Three options to be available.
And a site for the Challenger;
http://www.dodge.com/en/2008/challenger/
There will be three different options for 2009.
They all look good to me!
A: Challenger for me.
Q: What to do to my 91 trans am?
I finally broke down and bought a car. I got tired of riding my bikes in the rain. I’ve actually never owned my own car before i’ve had a motorcycle(s) to drive since i was 14 and i’m 26 now. While i have worked on a few chevrolet motors before i’m no pro. I’m just looking for ideas for this 5.0l (305) to make it have a bit more acceleration. I’m already planning on having the car repainted and reupholstered. First and foremost i’m just looking for ideas, I understand this isn’t a technical forum. my goals are 400-450hp naturally aspirated.
A: Well start saving for the engine to make 400-450 hp will not be cheap.So first off find a good 350 engine or a 400 small block.You can make a 383 stroker out of a 350.Look at summit racing.com or jegs.com they sell complete rotating assemblies to build a 383 but they start at $1000.00 on up for the kits,then you need a matching cam,intake and heads in order to meet ur goals of 400-450 hp.Power come with a price or call a engine shop and ask them to give you a idea what it will cost for them to build you a 383 and the hp goals you have.But dont be shocked if you hear $4000-5000.00 to build the engine.
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